How To Change Brakes On 2014 Ford F150

Ford F-150 Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide
How to change the front restriction pads on a 12th generation 2009 to 2014 Ford F150 truck with photograph illustrated steps.

Ford F-150 Front Cycle
Pry Off Lug Nut Comprehend
Hub Cap Removed This automotive "how-to" guide was specifically written to assist owners of the 12th generation (2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013 & 2014) Ford F-150 truck in changing the front disc brake pads.

Owners of other F-Serial trucks or other Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles such as the Super Duty F-250, F-350, F-450, Expedition, Explorer, Edge, Escape, Due east-150, East-250, E-350, Transit Connect, Flex, MKX, MKT, Navigator and Mountaineer may also find these DIY front brake task instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to complete this process include a flathead screwdriver, lug nut wrench, floor jack, jack stands, 13mm socket, ratcheting wrench, a "C" or "F" clamp, a new prepare of forepart brake pads and a parcel of brake caliper lubricant grease.

A few compatible aftermarket front brake pads include the following with their part numbers: Wagner QC1414, Monroe DX1414, Motorcraft BR-1414, Raybestos ATD1414SV, Bendix D1414, Centric 105.14140, Motorcraft BRSD-1414 Bosch BC1414, Akebono ACT1414, Monroe CX1414, Ability Cease # 16-1414 and Wagner ZD1414.

Loosen 6 Lug Nuts
Enhance Vehicle
Spin Off Lug Nuts The outset few steps are to park the truck on a level surface, engage the emergency parking brake and brimming the rear wheels to forbid the vehicle from moving.

If your F150 is equipped with lug nut covers or "hub caps" on the wheels, gently pry them off with a flathead screwdriver and prepare them aside in a safe place.

Slightly loosen the 6 lug nuts with a tire iron past turning them counter clockwise.

Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and securely support information technology with at least two jack stands.

(I prefer to work on one side of the vehicle at a time for actress rubber.)

6 Lug Basics Removed
Pull Off Front Bike
Front Brake Caliper Spin off the six lug nuts and fix them aside in a condom place earlier pulling off the front cycle.

Backside the wheel, you lot'll see the front end restriction caliper, rotor, subclass and suspension.

Locate the two bolts on the back side of the caliper.

Loosen Upper Caliper Bolt
Loosen Lower 13mm Commodities
Remove Upper Caliper Bolt Loosen the upper caliper bolt with a 13mm socket and ratcheting wrench by turning it clockwise (as seen from the outside of the vehicle).

And then loosen the lower 13mm caliper bolt.

Remove Upper 13mm Bolt
Two 13mm Bolts Removed
Pull Off Front Brake Caliper Remove both caliper bolts and set them aside in a safe place.

Carefully pull the front restriction caliper off the old pads and out of the bracket.

Rest Caliper On Suspension
Remove Old Brake Pads
Pull Out Quondam Inner Pad Rest the brake caliper on top of the rotor or hang information technology from the suspension spring with a piece of twine or a bungee cord. Try to avoid stressing the condom restriction fluid line.

Pull the former outer and inner brake pads out of the bracket.

Replace Anti-Rattle Clip
Pull Out Caliper Slider Pin
Lubricate Lower Pin

If your gear up of new brake pads came with new metal pad abutment or "anti-rattle" clips, pull the onetime ones out of the top and bottom of the subclass before installing the new units.

In order for the brake caliper to work properly, the upper and lower caliper slider pins need to be well lubricated. Pull the pins straight out of the subclass and apply a thin layer of brake parts lubricant grease to each one. Push the pins back in until their prophylactic dust boots snap dorsum in to place.

Thoroughly clean off the brake rotor, caliper bracket, restriction caliper assembly and the lug nut studs with brake parts cleaner spray. Do not employ compressed air or accident with your mouth to make clean off the brake parts since breathing in brake dust can exist harmful to your health. Brake dust can exist carcinogenic (causes cancer) if inhaled.

If your vehicle previously exhibited shuddering, pulsating, or vibrations during braking, y'all may need to take your rotors "turned" (resurfaced) or just supersede them with brand new rotors. If this is the truck's beginning front restriction job and the rotors appear to exist in excellent status, you should be able to just supersede the pads with not bad results.

To remove the existing rotors and install new ones, but remove the two bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket that attach it to the steering knuckle. Then loosen the old rotor with a condom mallet, pull it off, and slide the new one in its place.

Attach "C" Clamp
Twist Off Restriction Fluid Cap
Compress Caliper Pistons Adhere the "C" or "F" clamp to the caliper using the back of an quondam brake pad to evenly distribute the force across the two pistons.

Motion to the engine bay and twist off the restriction fluid reservoir cap at the correct rear area of the engine bay closest to the driver'southward seat. Removing the restriction fluid reservoir cap volition permit the brake fluid to more easily travel backwards through the system when you compress the pistons.

Slowly turn the handle of the "F" clamp to compress the caliper pistons.

You may demand to reposition the "F" clamp to shrink both pistons evenly.

Check the fluid level in the reservoir repeatedly while compressing the pistons to make sure that it doesn't overflow. Clean up any spilled restriction fluid immediately since it can damage painted surfaces.

Replace Restriction Fluid Cap
Install New Outer Pad
Install New Inner Pad Replace the brake fluid cap ASAP since brake fluid is hygroscopic (readily absorbs moisture).

Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to any place where metal to metallic contact takes place such as the outer rings of the two pistons. Do not utilise lubricant to the friction surface of the new pads.

Install the new restriction pads in to the subclass.

Push Pads Against Rotor
Supplant Brake Caliper
Insert Upper Caliper Bolt Button the new brake pads flush against the rotor.

Gently lower the brake caliper in to the subclass and over the new pads.

If the caliper doesn't fit over the new pads, yous may demand to compress the caliper pistons back a scrap further.

Thread In Lower Bolt
Tighten With 13mm Socket
Tighten Lower Caliper Bolt Line up the bolt holes in the caliper with the corresponding holes in the caliper slider pins inside the bracket.

Thread in the 2 caliper bolts by hand to prevent them from condign cantankerous threaded.

Tighten the ii caliper bolts past turning them counter clockwise with the 13mm socket and ratcheting wrench to merely past hand tight or about 25 ft lbs of torque.

Double bank check that both caliper bolts are tight before continuing on to the next steps.

Safety Valve Cap
Brake Fluid Bleeder Valve
Replace Forepart Wheel

If your brake pedal previously felt soft or spongy, the brake fluid may be contaminated with water or the brake lines may contain some air bubbles.

It would exist best to bleed the brake lines at this time in club to affluent out the onetime fluid and replace it with fresh DOT3 brake fluid. For more on this topic, check out my Brake Line Fluid Haemorrhage With An Assistant DIY Guide or alternatively the Brake Line Fluid Bleeding With A Ability Bleeder Guide.

Spin On 6 Lug Basics
Slightly Tighten Lug Nuts
Lower Truck With Jack Supervene upon the front wheel and spin on the 6 lug nuts by paw to prevent them from becoming cantankerous threaded.

Slightly tighten the lug nut with the tire atomic number 26.

Lower the truck from the jack stands using the flooring jack.

Torque Lug Nuts
Supercede Lug Nut Cover
Forepart Brake Pads Replaced

Continue tightening the 6 lug nuts in a "criss cross" or "star" pattern to nigh 1/4 to 1/iii turn by hand tight. It would exist all-time to apply a torque wrench or an impact wrench with a torque stick to tighten the lug nuts to about 150 ft lbs of torque.

Sit in the driver's seat of the vehicle and pump the brake pedal a few times to restore the restriction line pressure. Check the brake fluid in the reservoir and verify that it is at the proper level. If information technology is depression, add some DOT 3 fluid.

Take the truck for a curt test bulldoze and and then double check that the lug nuts are properly tightened.

To break in your new front brake pads, just drive unremarkably for the kickoff few hundred miles while trying to avoid whatsoever hard or "panic" stops which may glaze over the new pads and cause them to be noisy and/or non perform besides.

It's also a practiced idea to regularly check your driveway for drops of brake fluid which may indicate a leak, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and likewise verify that the lug nuts are still tight.

For more than, check out my other Ford F-150 Repair & Maintenance Guides.

Source: https://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Ford-F150-Front-Brake-Pads-Replacement-Guide/

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